Cycling in Kerala

Kerala Backwater and Houseboat Cycling Tour

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Kerala is any tourist’s bucket list destination where they travel through a state that consists of diverse landscapes, lush greenery and serene beaches. This experience is made even more special when Kerala is explored on a bicycle. This time, I was keen on experiencing cycling around the pathways of the backwaters of Kerala, while staying in a houseboat. With Cycling In India, I was excited to indulge myself in this 5-day cycle tour from Kochi to Alleppey and take in all that Kerala had to offer me. This tour involved our group starting our ride from Fort Kochi where we explored the rich Dutch and Portuguese heritage and the vibrant art scene. On one side, we also rode along the coastal highway that enchanted us with serene blue seas and golden sandy beaches, while being treated to views of the backwaters with rice paddy fields and coconut plantations on the other side. We hopped off our bicycles to enjoy some relaxing canoe rides within the canals of Kumarakom while enjoying authentic Kerala cuisine along with the traditional dances of Kerala. 

As we soaked in the mesmerising views of Kerala and its backwater, we were joyous at the fact that these 5 days did not feel rushed and packed to the brim, but rather wholesome, leisurely and relaxing. 

Day 1: Fort Kochi 

Our cycling tour guides and organizers arranged an airport pickup from Cochin International  Airport straight to our hotel in Fort Kochi. Upon arrival in Fort Kochi, we got ourselves checked in and had a look at our bicycles that we would use for the next 4 or 5 days. After lunch, we even gathered for a short pre-tour meeting/brief where we were notified of our upcoming itinerary. We began our cycling adventure through Fort Kochi, immersing ourselves in its centuries-old heritage that dates back to the 1400s. The iconic Chinese Fishing Nets stood tall as a testament to the city’s rich maritime and fishing history, providing a captivating backdrop against the Arabian Sea. 

Our journey took us into Kochi’s vibrant art scene, where we explored street galleries and art cafes. While cycling through the city, we also made stops at renowned synagogues and indulged in antique artefact shopping in the historic Jew Town. Kochi’s reputation for historic architecture led us to visit the grand Santa Cruz Basilica and St. Francis churches. As we concluded our day’s cycling, we gathered at Princess Street, savouring a delightful dinner and indulging in delectable desserts.

Day 2: Fort Kochi to Marari Beach

Our second day began early as we left Fort Kochi on our bicycles towards Alleppey. We hit the long and straight beach road that rewarded us with picturesque views of the Arabian Sea lined with golden sandy beaches on one side. On the other side, we were treated to the lush green landscapes and small village towns. As we pedalled on the highway, the sea breeze grew stronger and the smell of the sea mingled with the coconut trees to make us thirsty yet invigorated. 

The coastal highway was not only littered with pristine and secluded beaches but also small villages and towns consisting of friendly fishermen who were just curious onlookers only affording a wholesome smile as we pedalled past them. As we neared Marari Beach, we were offered to go a little bit more inland to see some rice paddy fields and coconut plantations. The greenery here offered us some respite from the heat as we sipped on some fresh coconut water straight from the trees. We returned to Marari Beach scorched and toasted in the Sun, it famished us thoroughly. We checked into our beachside accommodation for the afternoon and rested up for an evening full of fun. As the Sun set over the Arabian Sea, we were witness to some of the best sunsets of our life while we dined in our hotel garden. 

Day 3: Marari Beach to Alleppey

Our night at Marari Beach was spent on the beach under the stars as the sounds of the sea waves serenaded us to sleep. We woke up early at sunrise for an early breakfast that would power us for our ride into Alleppey. Although it was an easy ride into Alleppey, a sense of excitement grew in our group. The day’s route was filled with a lot of exploration where we meandered through small villages where we witnessed the daily lives of the people living there. 

We observed local artisans in the village who were involved in the long and gruelling process of refining coconut husks to produce and manufacture coir ropes and mats. We also stopped at the local shops before entering Alleppey to witness the local artisans intricately craft colourful objects like furniture, candle stands, lampshades and coconut bowls. Our cycling adventure progresses closer to the backwaters and canals of Kerala where we gazed upon the numerous houseboats silently gliding on calm waters. As we reached our houseboat, we were welcomed with some delicious snacks and beverages much to our surprise. We rested in the afternoon in the cool of the houseboat before we embarked on a boat ride through the winding canals of the backwaters. Once we returned, our traditional seafood dinner was ready and waiting for us at the houseboat. 

Day 4: Alleppey to Kumarakom

Leaving behind the picturesque canals and vibrant energy of Alleppey, we continued our bicycle tour towards Kumarakom. As pedalled past the waterfront and countless hotels and resorts, we were treated to views of lush green trees and coconut palm-lined streets. Before we turned to Kumarakom, our group was offered a de-tour to a famous church known as Champakulam Church. This church was built in AD 427, long before the Portuguese had even arrived in India. Champakulam’s St. Mary’s Basilica is one of the oldest churches in India, and the mother church of all Catholic Syrian churches in India, and now holds the status of a Basilica from Pope Francis himself.  

Since this was a shorter ride than expected, much of our sightseeing was going to be done in Kumarakom as it was famous for a few tourist sites. We soon found ourselves under a thick canopy of trees that was shielding us from the harsh sunlight above. This canopy was part of the Kumarakom Bird Sanctuary. Spread over 14 hectares, and situated on the banks of Lake Vembanad, this sanctuary is home to large species of migratory birds that flock to this region from the distant mountains of the Himalayas and the vast expanse of Siberia. 

After a long day of bird watching in the sanctuary, we retreated to our second houseboat where we freshened up for dinner and took a leisurely boat ride in the evening the canals around Kumarakom. 

Day 5: Kumarakom to Fort Kochi

After a long four days of cycling through the backwaters of Kerala, we check out of our houseboat in Kumarakom. Cycling in India provided us with two options – either cycle back to Fort Kochi with a guide vehicle or get on a bus back to the city. Safe to say, every one of us opted for the former. From Kumarakom, we enjoyed another short day of riding our bicycles back to Fort Kochi while indulging in the same views that mesmerized us on our way here. 

Although this cycling tour may have been short, it was more than just a tour, it was a journey through the tranquillity and charm of God’s Own Country which is Kerala. From the vibrant art scenes of Fort Kochi’s streets to the houseboats on the backwaters of Alleppey and Kumarakom, we delved deeper into the enchanting state of Kerala, where our bicycles were our worthy companions to days filled with extraordinary sunshine, sumptuous food and intense exploration. We will always be thankful to Sabir Mallick – Cycling in India for the wonderful trip. Please visit the website for the itinerary for Kerala, Tamilnadu and Karnataka.

Dishanth Kembhavi
Dishanth Kembhavi
Dishanth is a born and raised Mumbaikar. An avid cyclist who speaks German and Spanish and loves a good coffee ride. In his spare time, he loves brewing coffee, rewatching Seinfeld and listening to 80s disco.
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